7 Hours in Modena, Italy | The Birthplace of Balsamic Vinegar
The quiet was palpable – even at 9am, Modena, Italy’s calm was like a warm, weighted blanket, in stark contrast to Firenze’s hustle and bustle. I was welcomed by the chill and distinct cobblestone unlike any that I’ve ever traversed. The following is equal parts travel guide and personal retelling of 7 hours in the birthplace of Balsamic Vinegar. And for the record, the stuff you’re buying in your local grocery store is rarely the authentic Balsamic Vinegar of Modena.
History and Arrival
Modena, Italy, is a historic city in the Emilia-Romagna region, renowned for its rich cultural heritage and culinary excellence. Founded by the Etruscans, the city was a Roman military colony called Mutina in 183 BCE. Since, Modena has seen significant developments over the centuries, flourishing during the Middle Ages as a center for trade and culture.
I arrived by train in the morning, departing Firenze’s Santa Maria Novella station at 7:25 in the morning, connecting in Bologna, and arriving in Modena at 8:58am. It was a frigid morning. Until the sun rises above the fascinating blend of Romanesque, Renaissance, and Baroque buildings, one must bundle up in late November.
It’s a short 15-minute walk to Piazza Grande, Modena’s vibrant heart, characterized by its historic significance and stunning architecture. This UNESCO World Heritage site features the magnificent Modena Cathedral, with its Romanesque facade, and the elegant Ghirlandina Tower, which offers panoramic views of the city. Surrounded by lively cafes and shops, Piazza Grande serves as a gathering place for locals and visitors alike, hosting events, markets, and festivals that celebrate Modena’s rich culture and community spirit. That particular day, Piazza Grande was the location for “Mercatino di Natale Tirolese,” or “Tyrolean Christmas Market.” The stalls weren’t open just yet, and I knew I’d return after the Balsamic Vinegar of Modena tasting I’d reserved at 10:00 am.
Today, Modena, Italy, is famous for its beautiful cathedral, handful of UNESCO World Heritage sites, opera, balsamic vinegar production, and high-performance sports cars like Ferrari and Maserati. That said, I’m sorry to disappoint my car enthusiast readers out there, but I had zero desire to visit the Ferrari museum on my day trip to Modena.
Wandering The Beautiful Cobblestone Streets of Modena, Italy
The occasional passersby were seemingly surprised to see me just as much as I was surprised to see so few at that hour. A son asked me to take a photo of him and his father outside their hotel. This small exchange warmed my heart even further than the vin brulè (mulled wine) I later partook in at the Christmas market.
I did enjoy seven blissful hours wandering the beautiful città (city) of Modena. Knowing I had a few hours until my lunch reservations, I decided to find a bar, which Italians often call a cafe. The word “bar” here encompasses establishments that serve coffee, pastries, and light snacks throughout the day, and usually also serve adult beverages.
The walls were adorned with art and photos of what I can only presume were past owners, family members, and patrons of this establishment, which was easily older than you and me combined. Dimly lit, the bar had a hauntingly charming air, as the framed photographs seemed to emit bittersweet memories that now existed only in the hearts of the living… and perhaps in the froth of the milk or as an ingredient in their dough.
I opted for my go-to pomodoro and mozzarella panino. This particular panino had poppy seeds, which was a nuanced twist on the traditional Tuscan schiacciata I’d become accustomed to. I also had an Americano. This means the barista brought an espresso with a side of hot water in a tiny carafe to my table. The longer I’m here, the more resolute I become in my belief that “the simpler, the better.” This simple morning snack was just the pick-me-up I needed to continue my wandering.
Balsamic Vinegar of Modena – A Taste of the Real Thing
The Northern Italian city of Modena embodies a blend of history, art, and gastronomy, making it a worthy destination for anyone who loves all of the above. I, personally, love balsamic vinegar, and one of the highlights of my excursion was a tasting at the only city central small producer of authentic Balsamic Vinegar of Modena: Acetaia Montale Rangone.
I was the only one participating in said tasting – I love it when that happens! The guide was wonderfully informative. Naturally, I learned a lot about Aceto Balsamico (Balsamic Vinegar) di Modena. For instance, did you know?
- Balsamic Vinegar of Modena never expires. Yes, it has a “shelf life,” only because of FDA regulations and such, but this stuff is good, essentially, forever.
- As vinegar ages, it becomes thicker and more concentrated as moisture evaporates through the barrel walls.
- Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena is classified:
- Affinato (refined) – red cap, aged for at least 12 years
- Vecchio (old) – silver cap, aged for at least 18 years
- Extravecchio – gold cap, aged for at least 25 years
- Balsamic Vinegar of Modena isn’t solely for dressings, bread, or cheese. It can also pair well with fish, ice cream, and other desserts.
That’s not all – that’s just the stuff I can remember off the top of my head. If you ever get the chance to do a balsamic vinegar tasting and/or tour in Modena, I highly recommend it. I left with an affinato, mainly because my love has a sweet tooth and thought it would be fascinating to drizzle the real stuff on a scoop of vanilla ice cream. I’ll update you on the outcome once I return to the States.
Life is short, and time is one of the most valuable illusions we have now, but may not have tomorrow.
More Wandering Post-Tasting
At this point, I was working up an appetite and very much looking forward to my lunch reservations at Ristorante Selmi22. But first, Mercato Albinelli was on my itinerary, as it should be on anyone’s first excursion to Modena, Italy.
Mercato Albinelli is a historic food market known for its atmosphere and diverse culinary offerings. Housed in a beautifully restored building dating back to the early 20th century, the market features various stalls selling fresh produce, artisanal cheeses, cured meats, and local specialties, including, of course, the famous Balsamic Vinegar of Modena. Visitors can also find bakeries, pastry shops, and eateries serving traditional Modenese dishes, making it a perfect destination for food lovers. With its lively ambiance, Mercato Albinelli not only showcases the region’s rich gastronomy but also serves as a social hub where locals and tourists gather to experience Modena’s flavors and culture.
It is Modena’s oldest covered market and arguably one of Italy’s most beautiful, showcasing Art Nouveau architecture. At its center stands a fountain topped by the “Fruit Bearer,” a sculpture by renowned 19th-century Modenese artist Giuseppe Graziosi. Due to its historical and cultural significance, the market has been carefully restored and recognized as a national monument since 1990. Visiting Albinelli, just steps from Piazza Grande, envelops you in a magical atmosphere filled with evocative sounds and aromas. The experience transforms everyday shopping into a journey through culinary heritage and distinct traditions.
Eating Lunch Like an American but Ordering in Italian
12:30pm is very much an American’s lunch time, as lunch hour in Italy really doesn’t begin until 1, and sometimes much later. I’d made reservations at Ristorante Selmi22 because it was a seafood restaurant with excellent reviews. As a pescetarian residing in meat-heavy Firenze, I really haven’t gotten to enjoy too much seafood.
Upon arrival, I was the only one there until an American couple came in shortly after. They’d dined at the restaurant before and enjoyed it so much that they wanted to return. And rightfully so. The host/waitress was very kind and accommodating, speaking to me in the little English she had a grasp of, and I spoke to her in Italian as best I could.
She offered me an English menu, and I politely declined. I opted to begin with the squid, tomatoes, and artichoke drizzled in Balsamic Vinegar of Modena. It was divine. My main course was seared pistachio-crusted tuna with chicory and pickled red onion, which was also divine.
To top this off, the bread basket contained a mysterious, crispy, what I thought was a cracker. I later found out that it was Sardinian in origin and called pane carasau, or “carta da musica.” This term translates to “sheet music.” Apparently, its paper-thin, round shape is so delicate that one could read music through it before baking it to a crisp. It’s also one of the oldest breads in the world! Who knew bread could be so divine? Yes – divine. I’ll keep using that word to describe what I tasted at this ristorante in the heart of Modena because it was that good.
Concluding My Day Trip to Modena, Italy
After lunch, there wasn’t a whole lot left to do – at least at that hour. Traditionally, Italians close up shop for a few hours, so I opted for one more glass of wine at a nearby bar that surprisingly wasn’t closed. The kind barista there told me my Italian was “very good.” I told her I’d let my tutor know.
After that, I wandered some more, taking photos of the lovely, colorful facades framing empty streets. As my time to return to Firenze neared, I began the short journey back to the train station, taking a different route than the one I had arrived on.
I stumbled upon Piazza Roma, a historic square that reflects Modena’s evolution over centuries. Established in the 19th century as part of urban renewal efforts, the square was designed to connect several important streets and serve as a central gathering place. Piazzale Ducale di Modena commands attention. Built in 1634, it features a Baroque courtyard and a grand staircase, and it currently serves as a military academy. On this particular day, a few families were admiring the piazza’s Christmas tree, festive décor, and fountains. There was also a small carousel, its operator just getting ready to offer rides.
As the sun began its descent behind historic walls, the chill from the morning returned, putting a little pep in my step and the half gloves back on my hands. I made my way to the train station to catch my 4:06pm train back to Firenze. I wrote in my journal that the prospect of never returning to a place that one loves has the capacity to invoke melancholy. On one hand, I’m grateful and richer for having experienced Modena. On the other hand, I’m sad that I may never return for various reasons, the strongest of which is the desire to venture to places I’ve never ventured before. And as we know, life is short, and time is one of the most valuable illusions we have now, but may not have tomorrow. Modena, however, has taken up permanent real estate in my heart.
This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.
Leave a Reply